Important Properties and Characteristics of Seams and Stitches

In fashion and apparel industry, different types of stitches are widely used in garment manufacturing by considering their functions and performance. So, in this blog post I hope to describe what they are. 

Stretchability 

Knitted fabric has higher stretchability. Therefore when garments are producing, commonly chain stitches are applied in to knitted fabrics because knitted fabrics have good stretch properties hence, stretchable stitches are essential to join fabrics. It is very helpful to change body when it dress with day today works. And also here I wish to remember, woven fabrics are commonly joints by lock stitches because woven fabrics are not stretchable.

Security and Abrasion Resistance

Chain stitch has low security because interlock area can be seen bottom of bottom ply. Therefore it is directly face to abrasion, and easy to break threads, and by one stitch point breaking it is affected for whole area of stitch to break. But if we used lock stitch this will not be occurred. Because lock stitch's each mid point has interlock area between middle area of two ply complex. Then, does not face to direct abrasion with surface. If one stitch break, it will not affect to each area of stitch hence, stitch security is higher than chain stitches.  

Strength 

Some stitches are widely used to increase strength of finished garments. The best example is safety stitches. Safety stitch is combination two or more stitch types, which enhance strength of the applied seam. 

Example:

             401 with 503 safety stitch

             401 with 602 safety stitch

And also widely used class 400, 500, 600, stitches on different applications that also increases strength of seam.

Class 401  -  Use for stretchable garments that increases strength after apply. For an example attach sleeves and elastics can be taken.  

Class 504  -  Formed by one needle thread and one two looper threads. This complex of stitch can be used to increase strength of seams and edges.  

Class 607  -  Stitches are higher strength, flatness and smoothness. This can be used to produce flat butted seams on infants panties, men's briefs, and other knitted intimates.  

Appearance and Aesthetic Value

In the apparel industry, manufacturer used different stitches considering appearance of garment. For an example in the formal trouser manufacturer widely used lock stitch types and he/she does not use class 400, 500, 600 commonly. Because that stitches should be simple for fashion. But in the casual wear, it is not a problem. And also when fashion cloths, manufacturer adds designs using ornament stitches and which enhance aesthetic value of finished fashion.  

Before we apply seam to create our designed fashion we have to consider several factors. Now I hope to briefly explain that factors getting one by one.

Garment Design

When we choose seam or stitches to apply expensive and fashionable garment, we have to give surface better appearance. Usually that seams and stitches are very difficult and expensive when applied into finished fashion. In the normal manufacturing process we have to spend mainly machine cost and labour cost for apply seams and stitches in sewing room. Therefore we have to design what should we applied for particular garment. Because expensive seams are not suitable for low price cloths. 

End Use

End use is very important factor that we should consider. It means how likely seam is to match with environment after finishing garment. Seam strength, durability, stretch ability, aesthetic values, performance, comfort ability are very important.  

Fabric Type 

In the manufacturing process we have to apply seams to various type of fabrics. Some fabric has very thickness, some has rough fabrics. Specially when we use knitted fabrics to produce garment, we have to use chain stitches for seams. Because chain stitches have higher stretch ability than lock stitches. But when we use woven fabrics, so we can use lock stitches to produce seams. And also before apply seam to fabric, we must choose strength of sewing thread and sometimes we have to apply,

          Cut point needles  -  For leather attaching

          Cloth point needles -  For knitted and woven fabric attaching 

Operator Skills

Operator skills are also very important factor. Because seam quality, accuracy and production speed depended on behavior of machine operator. If we have not well trained operator we have to face major problem. So buyer will reject our production and quality inspection also fail and failure costs will be increased. To avoid this, factory can organize training and development programs and grade each sewing operators into different categories such as grade A, grade B, etc. Some factories makes new salary increments and promotions to increase employee moral and motivation of sewing machine operator among their works. The most factories in Sri Lanka pay production incentives to motivate machine operator.  

Machines and Available Attachments

To produce mass garment production, today industry need special machines or sometimes need special attachments. Special attachments are help to increase production, and then operator have to easily launch his/ her operations through attachments. For an example different types of presser feet, folders and binders, and stitching guides can be given.